The inspiration behind Tata Naka’s spring/summer 2014 collection stems from the work of artist Sergei Diaghilev and his famed Ballet Russes. Diaghilev was the first to collaborate with contemporary fine artists like Picasso, Matisse and Dalî to bring forth a bold and conceptual aesthetic in his set and costume design. His groundbreaking collaborative efforts turned classical ballet on its head in the early 1900s, revolutionising the arts as we know it.
Tata Naka’s signature prints, shapes and appliqués deeply resonate with Diaghilev’s artistic vision. Classic silhouettes with modern patterns, geometric cut-outs and zig-zagged edges made up the look for S/S 2014, in an inspired collection of textures and finishings which bring to mind the beauty and lyricism of the work of the Ballet Russes.
The collection read elegant and fun – a look Tata Naka has perfected with each and every season. In an elegant mixture of vibrant and pastel hues, the brand modernised the Ballet Russes’ elaborate costumes through colour blocked jacquard dresses with polka-dotted tulle inserts, an alphabet print and classically 50s silhouettes. Voluminous sleeves and skirts introduced new shapes to Tata Naka’s established designs in a sherbert palette of ice cream pink, pistachio, peach and lemon, contrasted with primary splashes of red, blue and yellow.
The presentation was held in a blacked-out room of the Somerset House. Models were repeatedly arranged and re-arranged on platforms, some partially obstructed by curtains, mimicking the blocked theme throughout the collection. The production was raw and jagged, unlike the lyrical flow of its classical ballet influences. It seemed like as soon as we were in position for a cracking photo, the production crew would run in to direct the models into the next uncomfortably stoic position. We’re not sure whether this juxtaposition of production approach was intentional, but it certainly kept us on our toes for the two-and-a-half hour presentation..
Coming in hot from Copenhagen, design label Tabernacle Twins captured a surreal wonderland in their Spring/Summer 2014 Collection, Cobra Casablanca. The designer of the brand, Vibe Lundemark, graduated from Royal College of Art, London in 2009 with a MA degree in womenswear/knitwear and went on to show her S/S 2011 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Earning a work grant from the Danish Arts Foundation, the collection brought life to the quirky brand and it’s fictitious twin muses, The Tabernacle Twins. Textile and illustration tell the twins’ narrative of unpredictable adventure through scenic prints, shapes and knitwear.
Tabernacle Twins looked right at home, despite this being the brand’s first time showing at London Fashion Week. The show was held off-site at the Vestibule Space in Freemason’s Hall- a perfectly opulent setting for the next chapter of the twins’ journey.
Having returned from the desert quest, a fortune teller has lead the duo on a search for the magic cobra, which is believed to hold the next clue on their adventurous quest. Exploring a joining of elegance and sporty references, the collection featured chiffon dresses, purple laced pants, sporty cropped-tops and puffer jackets covered in mirrored digital prints of cobras and wicked diamond patterns. Peach lips and white patent leather Doc Martins paired with adorable ankle chains topped off the wonderfully quirky collection. Models walked the runway in twos, creating an eerie dual dynamic in their synchronisation. We eagerly await the next chapter of the Tabernacle Twins story and look forward to seeing more from them in the future!